Some History

Historic events, since 1870, have coined a picture of the Alsatian girl wearing a big bow, which became a national symbol. Even as Europe's border were gradually defined, Alsace kept changing hands : French in 1697 German in 1871 French in 1919 German in 1940 and French again in 1944. After the 1870 and 1940 wars many Alsatians left there country for other French provinces. Now they are back home… and in the July 14th parade, Alsatian costumes are in the first rank. So let us find out together this Alsatian costume of which the different parts, had to last the whole life handed over from generation to generation. It is in the 18th century that, bit by bit, the traditional costume takes shape, changing from village to another, according to religious beliefs, political memberships… The Alsatian costume is the deep soul of the peasant world.

"La belle Strasbourgeoise" (J-P d'Aigremont), 18th century hairdress and shaw (Noblewoman). (Painting 50 x 65 cm) Private Collection © Jean-Pierre d'AIGREMONT

Painting "La belle Strasbourgeoise" (Nicolas de Largillière) another 18th century hairdress.

Woman Costume

Shirts : are being worn since the 17th century, first linen, then cotton, trimmed with a narrow ruff and a slight low neckline. In the 18th century the sleeves are long and puffed out, tied at the end by ribbons. Ruff : The ruff worn by the women can be squared or rounded according to the places, edged by the same lace as the shirt. Skirts : The skirt's length color and decoration depend on religious beliefs. First bicolor, then, since 1830, only one shade. For the Protestants : the skirt is half long, hemmed by a velvet ribbon. Color : green, purple, brown, blue, even red. For the Catholics : the skirt is long, hemmed by black velvet, no ribbon. Color : madder red for girls. The wives and the aged wore deep colored skirts, but never green. Corselet : often in precious material, is laced in front, fastened by a hook or tied by a silk ribbon. False shirt front : worn behind the laces of the corselet. It is lavishly adorned with ribbons, colored glasses or sequins. The seamstresses made often real masterpieces. The false shirt front was and is always a spot to hide treasures : love letters, poetries, lace handkerchiefs… and rosemary sprigs to avoid sleeping during the offices.

False shirt front : 19th century

False shirt front adorned with colored glasses

Apron : In all the Alsatian costumes, first in white linen. Since 1800, in silk, satin, flowered or striped taffeta. It is maintained tight round the waist by two ribbons which cross in the back and fastened on the front with a big bow. The apron of the rich peasant girls, looking for a bride groom, was tied by a big cord which numerous knots showing the number of land included in the dowry.

Stockings : are white, knitted with different and decorative stitches, under the short skirts, they made the dancing girl's legs beautiful during the "Messti" (Popular feasts). The stockings were knitted at the evening gatherings. The kids learnt at school how to knit the most difficult stitches. Nowadays the stockings are mostly machine made.

Shoes : First "Louis XV" shoes with little bows. Then "Empire" shoes, nearly without heels. Ballerina shoes (1870) specially worn with short skirt. Small boots or ordinary shoes with laces when the skirts got longer.

Shawl : First it was worn only to keep warm. Later it became one of the nicest part of the Alsatian costume. Tied or crossed, in silk with long fringes often embroidered. It may be with flower design, striped or checked.

Underwear : The country women did not wear panties under their large skirt, but many petticoats, embroidered, red, purple colored… Now the petticoats are in cotton with lace … and so are the panties.

Headdress : changes with the years. First white or colored head scarf. The famous black bow appears in 1800. This bow grows with the years (1 meter large in 1900). The ribbons to make the bow are black for the girls, the brides and the protestant widows. Red or multicolored for the catholic girls.

Headdress, shawl, apron and top of a false shirt front.

False shirt front , black and red corselet, violet apron and shawl.

Man Costume

Shirt : comes from the long linen or cotton shirt worn by peasants. First stiff collar, then soft collar. The sleeves are long and pleated. Pants : First "culottes" and gaiters coming from the Revolution era, then long and tight, black, blue, green woolen trousers opened on each leg and buttoned in some villages. Today the pants are larger. Shoes : First leather boots. Then shoes with buckle worn with hand knitted white socks. Finally laced shoes with large heels. Vest (Waistcoat) : The principal part of the man costume, coming from the bloody peasant war of the 16th century. In that time it was only a piece of red material worn on the breast by countrymen. Since 1780, this piece has become a vest with many buttons. Young people wore a red vest, older one liked better dark colored vest. Hat : Different types. 19th century : black felt with large brims, hand knitted bonnet. Fur hat (polecat or marten fur), black felt hat with a not so large brim and a flat crown. This last hat is still worn. Various man costumes

Conclusion The description of the Alsatian Costume, I just made is the one of the dress well known and often used in Folk groups (see my photo on the first page). But Alsace is a big province and in certain parts of the region the costume changes. So the one from the "Munster" valley has other characteristics. Even if my pages are in French, go and see the pictures, you will discover the different Alsatian costumes. Click always on Page suivante = Next

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